Few houseplants are as forgiving and generous as the spider plant. It has arching, ribbon-like leaves, tolerates a bit of neglect, and produces dangling baby plants you can share with friends. Here is everything you need to keep one thriving.
Getting to Know Spider Plants
Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) come from the warm regions of southern Africa. Their thick, fleshy roots store water and nutrients, which is why they cope with irregular watering better than most houseplants.
They come in a few looks:
- Plain green, the hardiest and most tolerant of low light
- White-centered or white-edged varieties, which are more striking but need brighter light to keep their stripes
- Curly types, which have a more compact, wavy shape
Spider plants are non-toxic to cats and dogs, so they’re a good choice for pet households. Pets may still chew the leaves, though, which can damage the plant’s appearance.
Choosing a Healthy Plant
Look for:
- Firm, gracefully arching leaves
- Fresh color with no brown tips or spots
- A pot with drainage holes
- No pests, such as cottony fluff, webbing, or sticky residue
Skip plants with drooping leaves, mushy roots, or crispy brown tips, since these signal stress that may follow the plant home.
Spider plants are also easy to get for free. Any friend with a mature plant probably has baby plantlets to spare.
Pots and Soil
Pot: Choose a container with drainage holes that is only a couple of inches wider than the roots. Spider plants actually like being slightly snug. Shallow, wide pots suit them better than tall, deep ones. Terracotta works well for shelves and tables, and a lightweight pot or coir basket works for hanging displays.
Soil: Use a loose, well-draining mix. A good option is regular potting soil blended with perlite in roughly equal parts. Adding a little compost gives gentle nutrition.
Planting depth: Keep the base of the leaves level with the soil, not buried, and leave about an inch of space below the rim so water doesn’t overflow.
After potting, wait several days before the first deep watering.
Light
Spider plants do best in bright, indirect light, such as near an east-facing window or a few feet back from a sunny one. They will survive in dimmer rooms, but with two side effects: growth slows, and striped varieties fade toward plain green.
Too much direct sun can bleach or scorch the leaves, particularly in summer. If leaves look pale or crispy, move the plant back from the window or filter the light with a sheer curtain. Rotating the pot regularly helps the plant grow evenly.
Watering
Spider plants like consistent moisture but not soggy soil.
- Water thoroughly when the top half of the soil feels dry, usually every week or so in warm months
- Let the excess drain out completely before returning the pot to its saucer
- Water less often in winter, when growth slows
- Hanging baskets dry out faster and may need more frequent watering
Water quality matters. These plants can be sensitive to minerals in tap water, especially fluoride, which can cause brown leaf tips. If your tap water is hard or treated, use filtered or rainwater when you can.
Signs to watch:
- Too dry: limp leaves, dull color, crispy brown tips, hard crusty soil
- Too wet: yellowing leaves, mushy roots, soggy soil that smells sour
Temperature and Humidity
Aim for comfortable room temperatures, roughly 18–24 °C (65–75 °F). Spider plants tolerate warmer conditions if they stay hydrated, but they dislike cold drafts and should stay above about 7 °C (45 °F).
Average household humidity is fine. If the air is very dry, grouping plants together or setting the pot above a pebble tray helps. Misting gives only a brief boost, so it’s not worth relying on.
Feeding
Spider plants need little fertilizer. Too much can cause salt buildup and brown leaf tips. A light feeding with a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer once a month in spring and summer is plenty, or simply add a little compost to the soil. Skip feeding in fall and winter.
Trimming and Tidying
- Snip off old, yellowing leaves at the base
- Trim brown tips with clean scissors
- Remove overly long or messy leaves to keep the plant tidy
- Cut away babies if you want the mother plant to put its energy into its own foliage
Growing More Spider Plants
From Baby Plantlets
The dangling babies, often called spiderettes, are the easiest way to multiply your plant.
- Wait until the plantlet has small, visible root nubs.
- Snip it from the stem.
- In water: Rest the roots in water, change it every few days, and pot up once the roots are a couple of inches long.
- In soil: Plant it directly in a small pot of moist potting mix and keep it lightly damp.
You can also pin a plantlet into a pot of soil while it’s still attached to the parent, then cut the stem once it has rooted.
By Division
When the plant becomes crowded, gently pull apart the clumps at the roots and pot them separately. This is best done in spring or early summer.
From Seed
Possible, but slow and less reliable, and the offspring may lose the parent’s stripes. Most gardeners stick to plantlets and division.
Repotting
Repot roughly every couple of years, ideally in spring, when you notice:
- Thick roots pushing through the drainage holes
- Roots bulging above the soil surface
- Soil that dries out extremely fast
- A cracked pot
Water a day or two beforehand, ease the plant out, loosen the roots, trim any mushy ones, and replant in fresh mix in a slightly larger pot.
Getting More Babies
If your plant isn’t producing plantlets, these are the usual reasons:
- It’s too young. Plants often need a year or two to mature.
- It’s been repotted too often, and it prefers a snug pot.
- It’s not getting enough light or water in the growing season.
- It’s over-fertilized.
- It’s getting bright artificial light at night in late summer or fall. Spider plants respond to longer nights, so leave them in natural day-and-night rhythm.
Pests and Problems
Spider plants have few pest issues, but watch for mealybugs, scale, aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies. Isolate an affected plant, wipe off bugs with an alcohol-dipped cotton swab, and spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap in the evening, repeating weekly until clear.
The biggest threat is root rot from soggy soil. If leaves turn yellow and limp and the roots are brown and mushy, unpot the plant, trim the rotten roots, and repot in fresh, well-draining soil.
Quick Troubleshooting
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Brown leaf tips | Mineral-heavy water, dry soil, strong sun, or dry air | Use filtered water, water evenly, filter the light |
| Bleached or pale leaves | Too much direct sun | Move back from the window |
| Loss of stripes | Too little light | Provide brighter indirect light |
| Yellow leaves | Overwatering or age | Check soil moisture, remove old leaves |
| No baby plants | Immaturity, low light, frequent repotting | Be patient, brighten the spot, leave it snug |
Seasonal Care
- Spring and summer: Bright indirect light, regular watering, light monthly feeding
- Fall: Allow natural longer nights to encourage flowering and plantlets, and begin easing off on water
- Winter: Water less, skip fertilizer, and keep the plant away from cold windows and drafts
Display Ideas
- Hanging baskets let the plantlets cascade beautifully
- Shelves suit compact varieties
- Tabletops show off a full, rounded clump
Spider plants pair nicely with plants that share similar needs, such as snake plants, ZZ plants, and jade plants.
Final Thoughts
Give your spider plant bright, indirect light, consistent but not soggy watering, and a snug pot, and it will reward you with steady growth and an endless supply of baby plants. It’s a forgiving plant, so even if you make a few mistakes, it usually bounces back with new growth.